In this how to repair a stippled ceiling blogpost guide we cover the obvious. That is, how to repair a stippled ceiling.this blog post could take you a long way to understanding what it takes to repair a stippled ceiling the right way with professional results. Here we will review the best tried-and-true methods that we used to repair stippled ceilings time and time and time again. Hopefully it will work for you too.
There are basically three types of stipple ceiling repairs that are typical stippled ceiling professional repair person will come across out there in the wild while working for the man or as a self-employed person. The three basic types of stipple ceiling repairs are complete drywall ceiling replacement and new stippled ceiling finishing, repairing a major sized stipple ceiling repair job, and the little itty bitty do it yourself done by hand or with a $2 tool stipple ceiling repair jobs that most other people out there should be able to do themselves.
With that out of the way most of the jobs that we see out there are one of the three types of stipple ceiling repair jobs mentioned above. Most of the time we see very small do-it-yourself stipple ceiling repairs and medium-sized stipple repair jobs such as a room or half a room. Every now and then some poor customers pipes burst in the top floor or on the main floor and flood out the ceiling below the floor with water requiring complete ceiling drywall removal and replacement and then finish coat of new stippled ceiling on top.
For the most part drywall stipple ceiling replacement and major stipple ceiling repairs should be done by a professional with professional stipple ceiling repair tools of the trade. A professional stippled ceiling repair person will be able to make short work out of stipple ceiling repair job and provide you higher quality results almost every time. The very small nickel and dime and quarter sized stipple ceiling repairs that can be done by just about anyone are pretty much the only jobs that we recommend customers try to do themselves.
So starting with the hardest type of stipple ceiling repair jobs possible let’s talk about complete drywall removal and complete new stipple ceilings for the worst job possible. These types of stipple ceiling repairs can be as simple as changing out a sheet or two on the ceiling, could be as bad as having to remove and replace all of the drywall on the ceiling, to the absolute worst nightmare possible we’re all of the drywall on the ceiling and the walls needs to be replaced, reinstalled, and refinished. These are very time-consuming stipple ceiling repairs that require a variety of skills to get professional perfect results. It’s not as easy as it looks on YouTube.
When your ceiling drywall and walls require removing them and replacing them with new ones it’s pretty obvious. The fix to these types of stipple ceiling repair jobs is pretty much to completely gut the room and start from scratch. It is an extremely messy job, and it is a an extremely time-consuming job most of the time being spent on waiting for mud and primer and paint to dry before the work can continue. You really can’t rush mud drying anymore then you can Rush a coat of primer or paint or mud on the wall to dry. Sometimes you just have to let things dry out and come back the next day to continue. Sometimes you have to do that five days in a row before you can even get to the primer.
The easiest way to keep things clean on a major repair job like this is to take your time covering the floors with very thick cardboard and plastic taped down to the ground. The idea is to completely complete the job without making a mess and provide the customer with the exact same floor they had before you started the stipple ceiling repair. This is easily accomplished I simply taping down solid pieces of cardboard right below where the baseboards would set and filling in the middle. Be generous with the tape. Tape it all in. Then grab some plastic and take off the cardboard on the floor with plastic the same way so that you can use the cardboard again at a later date if needed. Or in another room if you have a really bad repair.
With the preparation done it’s time to rip down the ceiling and if needed the walls. The fastest way to make progress is to find and cut through the tape and mud on the walls that is used to join everything together. With a heavy duty sharp knife you should be able to start by cutting through the corners of the drywall where the ceiling and wall meet. The idea is to cut right in the corners all around the room. If you can do a good job here cutting out where the ceiling meets the wall you can remove the ceiling in such a way that you leave your drywall intact and ready for mudding and taping that comes next instead of having to replace the drywall walls.
When you were cutting out the corners or cutting out the tape that joins the ceiling in the walls together you should be able to find other pieces of tape used to take the wall in well you were cutting out the corners. This should be able to help you find existing tape lines underneath the primer and paint or texture of your ceiling and provide you a guide on where to cut out next. The idea is that you want to cut out the tapes exposing the drywall as it were before tape and mud was added so that you can do easy and clean drywall removal. of course you could always grab a hammer and just start breaking stuff but that’s not really professional for very clean when other more professional-looking and cleaner method options are available.
What’s a drywall removed and their screws removed from the drywall that was holding it in place being removed from the framing of the room it’s time to drywall in brand new drywall on the ceiling and or the walls. If you take your time cutting out the drywall is recommended above you might find that you can easily cut out and drop-in replacements pieces of drywall as you go. Instead of figuring out how to drywall board and drywall tape your wall again you can use the existing example right in front of you while you were cutting out your walls. It works every time for us looks very professional and our customers like scene professional drywall removal compared to the big mess that most homeowners might be expecting.
After the drywall is removed and the new drywall is installed it’s time to mud and tape in the first coat of mud and tapes on the new drywall. We always do the hardest work first so we always start with the ceiling even if there is walls and ceilings to be taped in. The first thing we do is mut up all of the top angles or the drywall walls and the drywall ceilings meet. We will use a 3 to 6 inch drywall knife and provide liberal amounts of drywall compound for finishing joints. You want to use finishing joint mud for your tapes and beads because it has more glue in it and sticks a lot better than finishing mud does.
We put liberal amounts of mud approximately 224 in wide all along the corners of the ceilings and directly below corners of the ceilings where the wall meets so that both the top of the wall and the edge of the ceiling where it meets the wall are both covered in mud. Then we grab our drywall tape soak it in water found it in the middle and either one or two people apply the wet drywall tape to the wet mud all around the room first.
After the mud is on the wall on the tape is on the mud we press it into place provide a level and very sharp edge. Then we use a drywall knife or another flat 4 to 6 in knife to gently wipe the drywall tape in such a way to cause the mud underneath the tapes to ooze out. We follow all along the tape line and wipe out both sides of the tape. It is very important that the tapes are perfectly flat against the drywall. There can be no bubbles underneath the tape and no lifting of the tape off of the mud. If you don’t take care of it now and correct it while you can see it you will see it in your finish coat no matter what you do. You have been warned.
After the top angles have been mudded, the tape applied, and the tapes wiped in we do the corners where the walls meet the walls in every corner of the room. After all the corners of the room have been taped in you look for the longest tape lines or butt joints to tape in next. We start off with the longest ones and work our way around the room to the smallest ones. Pretty much you tape it all in and then you taping your beads. Beads as in corner beads. We might both sides of the corner and apply your beads and make sure they are sitting flat and straight with the wall and then leave the whole room to dry overnight.
Now that the drywall removal has been completed, the drywall boarding has been completed, and the first coat of mud and tape and beads have been applied it’s time to get on with the second coat of mud. This is where we switch over to finishing mud for the second and third coat of mud to be applied. We always used three total coats of mud over tapes. So with that in mind again we start with the hardest part of the job and we fly the second coat of mud to the ceilings first and then the walls. One of the easier ways to apply new drywall mud it’s just simply walk around the room and scrape off any obvious ridges of the first coat of drywall mud left over and obvious to the naked eye with a drywall mud knife.
After all The ridges have been scraped away from the first coat of drywall mud we simply apply a second coat of mud over top of the first coat of mud and make sure that we go wider with the second coat of mud than we did with the first coat of mud. When you take your time with this can you try to leave a flatter finish of mud and less ridges you will have less work to do on the third coat of mud and you will get better results. We start off on the ceilings mud those in and then we hit the walls and call it a day. The drywall will typically require a day to dry out again before you can apply a third coat of mud.
After the second coat is mud has dried out you rinse and repeat the same way that you did the second coat of mud. Use a flat drywall knife too lightly scrape away any ridges left from the previous coat of drywall mud and then add third coat of mud going over top of the second coat of mud ensuring that the third coat of mud is applied wider than the second coat of mud. Once that third coat of mud is on it’s going to be time to sand out the drywall mud so it is always best that you take your time and wipe away any wet drywall mud ridges that you can find before you let it dry so you will have less sanding to do tomorrow or the next day or the day that you decide to get on with sanding new drywall down.
It’s sanding time. The idea was sanding is to do a good job on the third coat of mud to minimize the amount of sanding that is going to be required. If you have done a good job of the third coat of mud you should be able to get away with using a sanding pole to sign down the areas where the mud meets the drywall. These must be perfectly flat so take your time sanding them out lightly. For those tough to reach areas that you can’t get a sanding pole in or if you did not do a good job of third coat of mud we find that using a 60 grit to 100 grit sanding block make short work of most drywall mud ridges.
It is very important that you do not over sand the areas where the drywall in the mud meet. If you signed these areas too much you will see them after you have primed and painted the walls out. We cannot stress this enough. Do not over sand the walls or the drywall or you will completely have to restart again with new drywall board new drywall mud new drywall capes and several new coats of drywall mud. You have been warned again. After the signing has been completed it’s time to prime the new drywall with drywall primer sealer. Any drywall primer sealer will do but the whiter and brighter the color of the primer the better.
And all the priming is down on the new drywall and it has all dried out it’s time to plastic and tape off all of the walls and the floor again and spray in a new stipple ceiling. For the do-it-yourselfer or small contractor who doesn’t do a lot of ceilings a small air compressor and they small texture Hopper will do the job just fine. The way we mixed texture or stipple ceiling texture is to purchase a bag stipple ceiling texture, throw it in a 5-gallon empty pail, add 2.5 gallons of water or approximately half of a 5 gallon pail and mix it all up with a drill and whip making sure that there is absolutely no lumps in the stipple texture.
We stipple ceilings by going into the room and starting above the door and spraying in all of the corners first. Then walking backwards away from the door we lately fill in the middle areas in a half on half off finish much like cutting your lawn or shoveling snow walking backwards until our backs are against the wall. With just a few feet left we turn around and spray in the remaining areas lately joining up the areas already covered with stipple ceiling texture. With one row of texture done we spray in the next row the exact same way we sprayed in the first row. We rinse and repeat until the entire stippled ceiling is completed.
Soon as the stipple ceiling is completed we allow it about 30 minutes to dry before we start taking down the plastic on the tape. After the ceiling has had in about half an hour to dry and we have removed the plastic tape and paper if used we again grab a small 4in to 6in drywall knife I’m lightly scrape out the corners where the drywall and ceiling meet with the corner of the drywall knife very lightly.
The reason for this is we want to provide a sharpened smooth line for the painting that is to follow and to get the texture on the ceiling that might have made its way down onto the wall. you could wait for everything to dry and scraped corner out with a nail or a screw but that just makes a mess. So we get it out when it is wet for the obvious reasons.
The other type of to stipple ceiling repairs that we see is Major stipple ceiling repairs and minor stipple ceiling repairs. When it is a major stipple ceiling repair we scrape the stipple ceiling off of the ceiling completely, spray painting new drywall primer over top of whatever is left, what it all dry out and then spraying a new stipple ceiling and stipple ceiling the entire room to a brand new look. That is the only way to get professional stipple ceiling repair results unless of course it is a small stipple ceiling repair such as missing stippled ceiling. One can simply buy a spray can of stipple ceiling repair in a can and spray it in or buy a bag of stipple ceiling texture mix it up by hand and apply it by hand until it looks good for you.
Kaboom. the three types of stipple ceiling repairs stipple ceiling repair professional c day in and day out and the wors case and best case scenario and work required to complete major stipple ceiling repair down to a minor stipple ceiling repair and just about everything in between. we have used the methods above to complete hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of stipple ceiling repairs in our part of the world they work here and they should work for you to anytime.